directed me to the habitation of the
Alcalde's sister, a large house in the rear of an extensive
cane-field, and about a mile from the road where we were. To this
house I proceeded, and presented my pass to the old lady, who
treated me with the same hospitality I had received from her
brother. There was a similar appearance of wealth, though not to
the same extent I had noticed at St. Claire; and from the
antiquated appearance and number of her massy silver vessels, I
could not but infer that the Alcalde was descended from some
noble Spanish family. After I had passed two or three hours here,
and been furnished with provisions for my journey, I departed;
and knowing that I could not be far from Matanzas, I walked
leisurely along, admiring those beauties of nature for which my
fears had hitherto precluded a relish.

[Footnote I: No person thinks of travelling in any part of Cuba
unarmed; even the negro wears his machete--and every man of
respectability travels with pistols.]

Along the narrow winding path there was an endless variety of
rich romantic scenery--sometimes I would ascend an elevated piece
of ground, where I could view numerous plains as level as the
sea, rising here and there in various elevations, teeming with
vegetable life, and presenting to the eye a variety of rich
colours, separated from each other by irregular and abrupt
ridges. Even the wilderness through which I passed, appeared as
though the hand of man had been employed to adorn it; for the
tall majestic trees that constitute the growth of the Island,
were tied together at the tops, by creepers running out from
their branches, forming the most graceful festoons, and often
peeping over the tops of the trees, as if to exult in their
own luxuriance.

Night, which had now commenced, added grandeur to the beauty
of the scene; for the innumerable brilliant lights of the
Cuculla,[J] bespangling the fleecy flowers that crowded the
forest, appeared like the stars of heaven glowing among the
silver clouds of an autumnal evening.

[Footnote J: This is a large species of the Fire-fly, frequent in
Cuba.--When fully grown, it is nearly an inch long, and has three
powerful lights; one on each side of the head, and a third on the
abdomen.--The light afforded by two or three of these insects
will enable one to read in the darkest night.]

How could I repose amid such a scene as this, without contrasting
it with that at the COVE; where I had literally made