stage of growth, and therefore
the most sheltered position in the garden should be chosen for them; but
avoid a hedge or shrubbery, where strong growing trees rob the soil of
its virtue. Begin the preparation of beds during the previous autumn by
deep digging, and incorporate a liberal dressing of well-rotted manure
as the work proceeds. On light and shallow soils it will do more harm
than good to bring the raw subsoil to the surface, but the subsoil may
with advantage be stirred and loosened by the fork, and if a little
loamy clay can be worked into it the land will be permanently benefited.

A very stiff soil will, however, present greater difficulties; but if by
free working it can be made sufficiently friable, Asters will revel in
it, and produce flowers of a size and colour that will reward the
cultivator for all his trouble. Throw the ground up roughly in October.
The more it is exposed to the action of wind, snow and frost, the more
thoroughly will the winter disintegrate its particles and render it
fertile. Early in spring give another digging, and then work in a good
supply of decayed manure, together with grit, charcoal, wood ashes, or
other material that will help to render the soil rich and free. Aim at
inducing the roots to go down deep for supplies--there will then be a
cool moist bottom even in dry weather, and these conditions will do much
toward the production of fine stocky plants capable of carrying an
imposing display of flowers.

For sowings from the end of March to the middle of April prepare a
compost consisting principally of decayed leaf-mould, with sufficient
loam to render it firm, and sharp sand to secure drainage. Either pots
or seed-pans may be used. Place these in a cool greenhouse, or in a
Cucumber or Melon pit, or even on a half-spent hot-bed. Sow thinly; a
thick sowing is very likely to damp off. Just hide the seed with finely
sifted soil, and place sheets of glass at the top to prevent rapid
evaporation. Give no water unless the soil becomes decidedly dry, and
then it is better to immerse the pot or pan for half an hour than to
apply water on the surface. When the plants attain the third leaf they
can be pricked off into shallow boxes or round the edges of 3-1/2 inch
pots. From these they either may have another shift singly into small
pots, or may be transferred direct to blooming quarters. A high
temperature is not requisite at any stage of growth, indeed it is
distinctly injurious