illustrative of all of Glacier. There
are wilder spots, by far, some which frighten; there are places of
nobler beauty, though as I write I know I shall deny it the next time I
stand on McDermott's shores; there are supreme places which at first
glance seem to have no kinship with any other place on earth.
Nevertheless, McDermott contains all of Glacier's elements, all her
charm, and practically all her combinations. It is the place of places
to study Glacier. It is also a place to dream away idle weeks.
So he who cannot ride or walk the trails may still see and understand
Glacier in her majesty. Besides the places I have mentioned he may see,
from the Cut Bank Chalet, a characteristic forested valley of great
beauty, and at Lewis's hotel on Lake McDonald the finest spot accessible
upon the broad west side, the playground, as the east side is the
show-place, of hundreds of future thousands.
So many are the short horseback trips from Many Glacier Hotel to places
of significance and beauty that it is hard for the timid to withstand
the temptation of the trail. Four miles will reach Grinnell Lake at the
foot of its glacier, six miles will penetrate the Cracker Lake Gorge at
the perpendicular base of Mount Siyeh, eight miles will disclose the
astonishing spectacle of Iceberg Lake, and nine miles will cross the
Swiftcurrent Pass to the Granite Park Chalet.
ICEBERG LAKE TYPICAL OF ALL
In some respects Iceberg Lake is Glacier's supreme spectacle. There are
few spots so wild. There may be no easily accessible spot in the world
half so wild. Imagine a horseshoe of perpendicular rock wall,
twenty-seven hundred to thirty-five hundred feet high, a glacier in its
inmost curve, a lake of icebergs in its centre. The back of the
tower-peak of Mount Wilbur is the southern end of this horseshoe. This
enclosure was not built up from below, as it looks, but bitten down
within and without; it was left. On the edge of the lake in early July
the sun sets at four o'clock.
Stupendous as Iceberg Lake is as a spectacle, its highest purpose is
illustrative. It explains Glacier. Here by this lakeside, fronting the
glacier's floating edge and staring up at the jagged top in front and on
either side, one comprehends at last. The appalling story of the past
seems real.
THE CLIMAX AT GRANITE PARK
It is at Granite Park that one realizes the geography of Glacier. You
have crossed the continental divide and emerged upon a lofty abutment
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