at course; it is surprising to notice how much more tender meat is than
it used to be when we tried to cut it with the silver knives. The
soup-spoon is laid at the top of the plate. The salad fork may be brought
in with the salad if preferred, spoons with the dessert and coffee. Grape
fruit is eaten with an orange spoon, laid at the right. No "fancy folding"
of napkins is permissible. The glasses stand at the top of the plate, a
little to the right. Small cut glass or fancy dishes containing the
relishes are placed near the corners of the table within the circle of
plates if the table is square; if it is round they are so arranged so as
to balance each other in the form of a square. There may be two of nuts
and two of stuffed olives or of bonbons. Individual salt cellars are at
the top of the plate; a roll is folded in the napkin, sometimes laid on
the bread-and-butter plate, which is placed at the left. Such rolls should
be small and well-baked. At formal dinners no butter is served, and the
plates are omitted. Finger bowls are brought in after the ices or the
pudding. They are on a small plate on which is a doily, and the fruit
knife, if to be used, is on the plate. The guest lays bowl and doily at
his right, lifting the two together, the plate being for fruit, if any is
served. If no fruit, the bowl is left on the plate.

[MANNERS AND SOCIAL CUSTOMS 703]

LUNCHEONS.

The luncheon is a less elaborate function than the dinner, but ranks next
it in point of compliment and display. The "stand-up" or buffet luncheon
is much less popular than formerly, in fact even at the so-called buffet
luncheons the guests are now seated at small tables accommodating four.
Invitations are sent out ten days or two weeks in advance, and require
prompt replies.

Formal Luncheons.--Save in a less elaborate menu, the formal luncheon
differs very little from the dinner, except that the latter is at seven
o'clock, and the luncheon almost invariably at one. The menu generally
begins with grape fruit, served in glasses on small plates and doilies,
and on the table when the guests are seated. An orange spoon is used. The
table is set as for dinner, save that less silver is laid. Bouillon,
served in bouillon cups, with a spoon on the saucer may follow. Then may
come lobster a la Newburg; sweet-breads and peas; salad; ices and coffee.
In place of the sweet-breads one may serve squab on toast, fillet of beef,
or broiled chicken; peas, beets, an