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remains, much the same milky white and pale as stone. Hotel Diligencias In Veracruz dusk troubles with a scent of gardenias after the last tramcar passes by, and the rocking chairs begin their small breeze-making on the balconied terraces between the family photographs and little statues. The dancing couples revolve at an angle in the great brewery mirrors marked: Cerveza Moetezuma before the globes lighting the plaza die out at 9:30 pm sharp. But this was Villahermosa. Lightning burns like mescal in the throat of night. The whisky priest skulks about the mountain roads where you are headed, at Chiapas or Las Casas, charging so many pesos per baptism in the illegal night. With or without him thrive the false saints & miracles in these remote regions, pure homage to superstition. O comfort of Poverty! O lie of Pleasure! You recalled the hot seaport, your departure planned on the Ruiz Cano that dangerous barge which took you out over the Gulf of Mexico away from the anger hidden in laughter, from the pistilleros lounging by the Presidencia. You the too curious gringo left behind you the coasting steamers & pink squared plazas to forget the taste of warm beer in dreary cantinas. You headed for the high ground of Tabasco & the country of ruined churches. Back at the beginning of those lawless roads lie the dingy houses smearing out onto silver sandhills. Wardrobe Drinkers is what they are in Austinmer. Yuppies from the North Shore, $300,000 homes on the beach front, sending the RSL broke & the greenies blocking development for a few birds up an estuary. Could be worse, given the Japs on the Gold Coast going off like mobile phones. The miners & cottages are long gone & so is full employment. In 1941 as a telegraph delivery boy I made 13 shillings 10 a week. Across the Harbour Bridge to the North Shore on a regulation red bike. Sunday was the day for casualty messages, the dead & wounded delivered all over Sydney except Vine street, Darlington, where Darcy the Crim lived & the most dangerous place in town. I came to Austinmer 30 years ago before the Wardrobe Drinkers in the days of the miners & cottages. Take those grain & coal carriers upwards of 250,000 tonnes with a 12 man crew, anchored stern to wind, off Hill 60 out of Port Kembla
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