ing a large tank filled with cold water in the corner of
the room he climbed in and was enjoying himself when the hotel proprietor
suddenly rushed upstairs exclaiming, "Mon Dieu, Mon Dieu, you are in the
tank of drinking water."

When we arrived at Yuen-nan Fu we found a surprisingly cosmopolitan
community housed within its grim old walls; some were consuls, some
missionaries, some salt, telegraph, or customs officials in the Chinese
employ, and others represented business firms in Hongkong, but all received
us with open handed hospitality characteristic of the East.

We thought that after leaving Hongkong our evening clothes would not again
be used, but they were requisitioned every night for we were guests at
dinners given by almost everyone of the foreign community. Mr. Howard Page,
a representative of the Standard Oil Company, proved a most valuable
friend, and through him we were able to obtain a caravan and make other
arrangements for the transportation of our baggage. M. Henry Wilden, the
French Consul, an ardent sportsman and a charming gentleman, took an active
interest in our affairs and arranged a meeting for us with the Chinese
Commissioner of Foreign Affairs. Moreover, he later transported our trunks
to Hongkong with his personal baggage and assisted us in every possible
way.

We went to the Foreign Office at half past ten and were ushered into a
large room where a rather imposing lunch had already been spread. The
Commissioner, a fat, jolly little man, who knew a few words of French but
none of English, received us in the most cordial way and immediately opened
several bottles of champagne in our honor. He asked why our passports had
not been vised in Peking, and we pleased him greatly by replying that at
the time we were in the capital Yuen-nan was an independent province and
consequently the Peking Government had not the temerity to put their stamp
upon our passports.

Inasmuch as Yuen-nan was infested with brigands we had expected some
opposition to our plans for traveling in the interior, but none was
forthcoming, and with the exception of an offer of a guard of soldiers for
our trip to Ta-li Fu which we knew it would be impolitic to refuse, we left
the Foreign Office with all the desired permits.

The Chinese Government appeared to be greatly interested in our zooelogical
study of Yuen-nan, offered to assist us in every way we could suggest, and
telegraphed to every mandarin in the north and west