At this season of the year there is a good deal of cloudy and rainy
weather in the Grand Canyon region, and this makes the gorge decidedly
gloomy when one is compelled to stay in it and descend the river. The
next morning with two hours of similar manoeuvring the rapid was passed.
The same day they found a stretch where the river was so swift the boats
were tossed from side to side like feathers, entirely unmanageable. Here
they met with another rapid and two of the boats were in such a position
they could not escape running it. But they went through without damage.
Then the third crew tried to reach land, and succeeded, only to find
that there was no foot-hold. They pushed out again, to be overwhelmed by
a powerful wave which filled the boat full. She drifted helpless through
several breakers and one of these capsized her. The men hung to the
side, the only thing to do in the Colorado unless one has on a life
preserver (and even then it is advisable), as she drifted down to the
other boats, where she was caught and righted. It has always seemed
strange to me that Powell on this crucial expedition did not provide
himself and his men with cork life-jackets, a precaution that suggests
itself immediately in such an undertaking. No one ought ever to attempt
a descent without them.
The next day they reached a clear little stream coming in through a
deep canyon on the right, and because they had honoured the devil by
conferring his name on a river higher up, Powell concluded to honour the
good spirits by calling this Bright Angel River. In its narrow valley
ruined foundations of houses and fragments of pottery were discovered.
There were also indications of old trails by which the builders had
made their way about. By the 17th of August, the rations were reduced
to musty flour enough for ten days, a few dried apples, and plenty of
coffee. The bacon had spoiled and was thrown away. Now the problem of
food was a paramount consideration. Should they be detained by many bad
places, they might be forced by the food question to abandon the river,
if possible, and strike for the Mormon settlements lying to the north.
The barometers were rendered useless, so that they could not determine
the altitude to see what proportion of descent still remained ahead.
They hoped, however, that the worst was behind. They now carefully
divided evenly among the boats the little stock of flour, so that, in
case of disaster, all of it should not b
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