r;--a man and mule said to have tumbled over without damage. The
people looked free, and happy, and _rich_ (which last implies neither of
the former); the cows superb; a bull nearly leapt into the
char-a-banc--'agreeable companion in a post-chaise;' goats and sheep
very thriving. A mountain with enormous glaciers to the right--the
Klitzgerberg; further on, the Hockthorn--nice names--so
soft!--_Stockhorn_, I believe, very lofty and scraggy, patched with snow
only; no glaciers on it, but some good epaulettes of clouds.

"Passed the boundaries, out of Vaud and into Berne canton; French
exchanged for bad German; the district famous for cheese, liberty,
property, and no taxes. Hobhouse went to fish--caught none. Strolled to
the river; saw boy and kid; kid followed him like a dog; kid could not
get over a fence, and bleated piteously; tried myself to help kid, but
nearly overset both self and kid into the river. Arrived here about six
in the evening. Nine o'clock--going to bed; not tired to day, but hope
to sleep, nevertheless.

"September 21.

"Off early. The valley of Simmenthal as before. Entrance to the plain of
Thoun very narrow; high rocks, wooded to the top; river; new mountains,
with fine glaciers. Lake of Thoun; extensive plain with a girdle of
Alps. Walked down to the Chateau de Schadau; view along the lake;
crossed the river in a boat rowed by women. Thoun a very pretty town.
The whole day's journey Alpine and proud.

"September 22.

"Left Thoun in a boat, which carried us the length of the lake in three
hours. The lake small; but the banks fine. Rocks down to the water's
edge. Landed at Newhause; passed Interlachen; entered upon a range of
scenes beyond all description or previous conception. Passed a rock;
inscription--two brothers--one murdered the other; just the place for
it. After a variety of windings came to an enormous rock. Arrived at the
foot of the mountain (the Jungfrau, that is, the Maiden); glaciers;
torrents; one of these torrents _nine hundred feet_ in height of visible
descent. Lodged at the curate's. Set out to see the valley; heard an
avalanche fall, like thunder; glaciers enormous; storm came on, thunder,
lightning, hail; all in perfection, and beautiful. I was on horseback;
guide wanted to carry my cane; I was going to give it him, when I
recollected that it was a sword-stick, and I thought the lightning might
be attracted towards him; kept it myself; a good deal encumbered with
it,