weather was
still terribly wet, when, according to rule, it should have been fine
and dry. We had scarcely anything to eat, and were all of us ill.
Fevers, colds, and dysentery were continually attacking us, and made me
long I-o get away from New Guinea, as much as ever I had longed to
come there. The captain of the Etna paid me a visit, and gave me a very
interesting account of his trip. They had stayed at Humboldt Bay several
days, and found it a much more beautiful and more interesting place
than Dorey, as well as a better harbour. The natives were quite
unsophisticated, being rarely visited except by stray whalers, and they
were superior to the Dorey people, morally and physically. They went
quite naked. Their houses were some in the water and some inland, and
were all neatly and well built; their fields were well cultivated,
and the paths to them kept clear and open, in which respects Dorey is
abominable. They were shy at first, and opposed the boats with hostile
demonstrations, beading their bows, and intimating that they would shoot
if an attempt was made to land. Very judiciously the captain gave way,
but threw on shore a few presents, and after two or three trials they
were permitted to land, and to go about and see the country, and were
supplied with fruits and vegetables. All communication was carried on
with them by signs--the Dorey interpreter, who accompanied the steamer,
being unable to understand a word of their language. No new birds or
animals were obtained, but in their ornaments the feathers of Paradise
birds were seen, showing, as might be expected, that these birds range
far in this direction, and probably all over New Guinea.

It is curious that a rudimental love of art should co-exist with such
a very low state of civilization. The people of Dorey are great carvers
and painters. The outsides of the houses, wherever there is a plank, are
covered with rude yet characteristic figures. The high-peaked prows of
their boats are ornamented with masses of open filagree work, cut out
of solid blocks of wood, and often of very tasteful design, As a
figurehead, or pinnacle, there is often a human figure, with a head
of cassowary feathers to imitate the Papuan "mop." The floats of their
fishing-lines, the wooden beaters used in tempering the clay for their
pottery, their tobacco-boxes, and other household articles, are covered
with carving of tasteful and often elegant design. Did we not already
know that s