ful
result depends on a number of conditions which, though they appear
trifling, are nevertheless necessary. The fire must be watched so as
properly to regulate the heat. The saucepan should be scrupulously
clean and have a closely-fitting lid, and be large enough to hold
sufficient water to well cover and surround the meat, and all scum
should be removed as it comes to the surface; the addition of small
quantities of cold water will assist the rising of the scum. For all
cooking purposes clean rain water is to be preferred. Among cooks a
great difference of opinion exists as to whether meat should be put
into cold water and gradually brought to the boiling point, or should
be put into boiling water. This, like many other unsettled questions
in cookery, is best decided by careful scientific experiment and
observation. If a piece of meat be put into water at a temperature of
60 deg., and gradually raised to 212 deg., the meat is undergoing a
gradual loss of its soluble and nutritious properties, which are
dissolved in the water. From the surface to the interior the albumen
is partially dissolved out of the meat, the fibres become hard and
stringy, and the thinner the piece of meat the greater the loss of all
those sapid constituents which make boiled meat savoury, juicy and
palatable. To put meat into cold water is clearly the best method for
making soups and broth; it is the French method of preparing the _pot
au feu_; but the meat at the end of the operation has lost much of
that juicy sapid property which makes boiled meat so acceptable. The
practice of soaking fresh meat in cold water before cooking is for the
same reasons highly objectionable; if necessary, wipe it with a clean
cloth. But in the case of salted, smoked and dried meats soaking for
several hours is indispensable, and the water should be occasionally
changed. The other method of boiling meat has the authority of Baron
Liebig, who recommends putting the meat into water when in a state of
ebullition, and after five minutes the saucepan is to be drawn aside,
and the contents kept at a temperature of 162 deg. (50 deg. below
boiling). The effect of boiling water is to coagulate the albumen on
the surface of the meat, which prevents, but not entirely, the juices
from passing into the water, and meat thus boiled has more flavour and
has lost much less in weight. To obtain well-flavoured boiled