the bare unfinished appearance that it had when I
was there last year. The tower in which the fire began seems to be a
good deal repaired: there are new mullions in its windows, &c. We
stopped to hear part of the service, which was not very effective.

* * * * *

Here are notes of his visit to Dentdale in Yorkshire, the birthplace
of his friend Sedgwick:

KING'S HEAD, KENDAL,
_1841, Sept. 15_.

The day was quite fine, and the hills quite clear. The ascent out of
Hawes is dull; the little branch dale is simple and monotonous, and so
are the hills about the great dale which are in sight. The only thing
which interested us was the sort of bird's-eye view of Hardraw dell,
which appeared a most petty and insignificant opening in the great
hill side. But when we got to the top of the pass there was a
magnificent view of Ingleborough. The dale which was most nearly in
front of us is that which goes down to Ingleton, past the side of
Ingleborough. The mountain was about nine miles distant. We turned to
the right and immediately descended Dent-dale. The three dales (to
Hawes, to Ingleton, and to Dent) lay their heads together in a most
amicable way, so that, when at the top, it is equally easy to descend
down either of them. We found very soon that Dent-dale is much more
beautiful than that by which we had ascended. The sides of the hills
are steeper, and perhaps higher: the bottom is richer. The road is
also better. The river is a continued succession of very pretty falls,
almost all of which have scooped out the lower strata of the rock, so
that the water shoots clear over. For several miles (perhaps 10) it
runs upon bare limestone without a particle of earth. From the head of
the dale to the village of Dent is eight miles. At about half-way is a
new chapel, very neat, with a transept at its west end. The village of
Dent is one of the strangest places that I ever saw. Narrow street, up
and down, with no possibility of two carriages bigger than children's
carts passing each other. We stopped at the head inn and enquired
about the Geolog: but he is not in the country. We then called on his
brother, who was much surprised and pleased to see us. His wife came
in soon after (his daughter having gone with a party to see some
waterfall) and they urged us to stop and dine with them. So we walked
abo