ed as food. The day
was intensely hot, and the sand deep; the animals, inflated with water
and rushes, gave way by scores; and although we advanced only sixteen
miles, many did not arrive at camp until 10 o'clock at night. It was a
feast day for the wolves, which followed in packs close on our track,
seizing our deserted brutes, and making the air resound with their
howls as they battled for the carcases.
"_December 12_.--We followed the Solidad through a deep fertile valley
in the shape of a cross. Here we ascended to the left a steep hill to
the table lands, which, keeping for a few miles, we descended into a
waterless valley, leading into False Bay at a point distant two or
three miles from San Diego. At this place we were in view of the fort
overlooking the town of San Diego and the barren waste which surrounds
it.
"The town consists of a few adobe houses, two or three of which only
have plank floors. It is situated at the foot of a high hill on a sand
flat, two miles wide, reaching from the head of San Diego Bay to False
Bay. A high promontory, of nearly the same width, runs into the sea
four or five miles, and is connected by the flat with the main land.
The road to the hide-houses leads on the east side of this promontory,
and abreast of them the frigate Congress and the sloop Portsmouth are
at anchor. The hide-houses are a collection of store-houses where the
hides of cattle are packed before being shipped, this article forming
the only trade of the little town.
"The bay is a narrow arm of the sea indenting the land some four or
five miles, easily defended, and having twenty feet of water at the
lowest tide. The rise is five feet, making the greatest water
twenty-five feet.
"Standing on the hill which overlooks the town, and looking to the
north-east, I saw the mission of San Diego, a fine large building now
deserted. The Rio San Diego runs under ground in a direct course from
the mission to the town, and, sweeping around the hill, discharges
itself into the bay. Its original debouche was into False bay, where,
meeting the waters rolling in from the seaward, a bar was formed by the
deposit of sand, making the entrance of False Bay impracticable.
"_January 2_.--Six and a half miles' march brought us to the deserted
mission of San Luis Rey. The keys of this mission were in charge of the
alcalde of the Indian village, a mile distant. He was at the door to
receive us and deliver up possession. There we ha
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