I knew there could be nothing doing the
direct way through Malines, so decided on a long swing around the circle
by way of Ghent as the only practicable way. We found Belgian troops all
the way to Ghent, and had no trouble beyond giving the password which I
had. We drew up at a restaurant in a downpour and had a hasty lunch,
getting under way again immediately afterward.

About ten kilometers this side of Ghent we came to Melle, a village
which had been destroyed, and another where a number of houses had been
burned. A nice-looking young chap told us that there had been a fight
there the day before and that the Germans had set fire to the place as
they retreated--just from cussedness, so far as he could see. There, and
at another place along the road, peasants told us that they had been
made to march in front of the German troops when they marched against
the Belgians. I don't like to believe that there is any truth in that
story but it comes from every direction and the people tell it in a most
convincing way.

We found no Germans until we were this side of Assche and then our
adventures were evidently at an end. As we came in we could hear heavy
cannonading from the direction of Vilvorde and Hofstade and knew that
the fight was still going on. They had been hearing it in town for a
couple of days.

The family at the Legation had been somewhat anxious, but had learned
through the Germans that we were all right--evidently from somebody who
got through the lines. I had to sit right down and tell the story of my
life from one end to the other.

I never got over the idea in Antwerp of the incongruity of going out
onto the field all day and fighting a big battle, or rather, watching it
fought, and then sailing comfortably home to a big modern hotel in a
motor and dressing for dinner. I don't think there has ever been a war
quite like this before.

Herwarth has gone to the front for some active service. I am sorry to
miss him. He went up to Hofstade the day I was to have returned, and
waited for me about an hour, but the fire got too thick for him and he
came back and reported that I would not be able to get through.

Monsieur de Woeste called this afternoon and paid his respects. He gave
the Minister an account of the attempts we made to get through that made
his hair stand on end for an hour afterward.

* * * * *

_Brussels, September 16, 1914._--To-day has broug